Week 11

Date:  June 2, 2007

Partners for the day: Elizabeth Stamoulis (text) Kyle Jazwa (pictures)

Sites:  Thorikos, Lavrion Mining District, Sounion

Museums: Lavrion Museum

Principle Buildings/Monuments:  Theater, retaining wall, mine, reconstruction of a washer, and a watch tower at Thorikos; Mine at Soureza; Sanctuary of Athena Sounias; Temple of Poseidon at Sounion

Time Spent on Sites: from ca. 8:00 AM to ca. 5:00 PM [9 hours]

Weather: Sunny and warm


            Thank you for purchasing the DVD collection of the First Season of Survivor Extreme:  Classics FSP in Greece.  You are currently watching Episode 74, “Season Finale.”  In the previous episode, our competitors spent the night mentally preparing for their last day in Greece.  The competition was getting fierce, and each contestant could already feel the prize in their hands:  a one-way ticket to New York City.  Let’s check in with our host, Seth Pevnick.

            “Today is the final day of our competition, and everyone is getting anxious.  For the first round, we’ve divided the competitors into four tribes.  Each will be taken to a remote location in the area of Lavrion, located about an hour outside of Athens.  They will be assigned an archaeological site, at which thy will have to locate and identify several important landmarks.  The two tribes that score the most points will move on to the final round.  Let’s see what they came up with.”

            Tribe 1 (Josh, Mike, Kelsey, Chris—Thorikos):  Thorikos is one of the best excavated rural demes of ancient Athens.  The harbor of Thorikos was fortified during the late part of the Peloponnesian War when the Spartans attacked the fort at Dekelia.  We found a theater dating to the Archaic Period.  It is unusual because, unlike most later Hellenistic theaters, it is not circular, but rather square.  Near it are rectangular cuttings into the stone, which may have been for a storage building for the theater equipment.  A retaining wall forms the back of theater, built around the 4th century BCE.  We found a modern reconstruction of a washer that would have been used in conjunction with the mine, which dates to the 3rd century BCE.  Water would have been circulated through the tanks with the finds from the mine, so that the ore would be separated from the unwanted rocks.  Our tribe also found remains of a watch tower from the fortification walls.

             Tribe 2 (Johann, Kyle, Pete— Lavrion Museum and Soureza):  The Lavrion Museum was not supposed to be open to the public, but the curators let us go in for a few minutes to look around.  They had a display explaining how the mines in the area worked, and exhibited the artifacts found there during the excavations.  Early Christian mosaics found in the area were placed in the center of the museum in the floor.  The most interesting pieces in the museum were the blocks from the frieze that went around the pronaos of the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion.  They depict scenes of a centauromachy made out of Parian marble.  When we went to Soureza we found the mines and we could see cisterns from the top of a mountain, but we could not find a way to the washer complexes, which are very well preserved at the site.

            Tribe 3 (Kristina, Ray, Nick, Liz—Sanctuary of Athena Sounias):  We could tell that the plan of this temple was unusual, because, instead of being rectangular, the temple looks more like a square.  The East and South sides had an Ionic colonnade, and since the cella was not perfectly centered, the door was also not in the center.  To the north is another, smaller temple.  There is an altar in front of this smaller temple, which is off-axis and therefore may indicate that there was an earlier temple on the site that would have been on the same axis as the altar.  Although we looked all over the site for more remains of the temple, it was hard to find.  One of the locals said that he had heard that the entire temple had been moved to the Athenian Agora as one of the wandering temples.

            Tribe 4 (Kinsey, Mike, Kelsey, Chris— Temple of Poseidon at Sounion):  The fortifications around the site were built around the same time as those at Thorikos, about 413/412 BCE.  Near the temple are a Propylaion and a stoa.  The temple is built out of Agrileza marble, and it is almost identical in plan to three other temples, the Hephaisteion in Athens, the Temple to Ares in the Agora, and the temple to Nemesis from Rhamnous.  They were all Doric peristyle temples with six columns on the short sides and thirteen on the long, and each column had only 16 flutes instead of 20.  They also had continuous Ionic friezes lining the interior of the pronaos.  This has led some scholars to suggest that the four temples were the work of a single architect.  We were also able to find the inscription of Lord Byron’s name on one of the columns.

            Seth Pevnick:  Well, that was an exciting first round of our finale!  Unfortunately, Tribe 2 had to be disqualified because they did not find the washer complexes.  Tribe 3 was also disqualified because they could not find the wandering temple.  This means that Tribes 1 and 4 will automatically make it to the final round.  This will be a culmination of the entire trip, where they will have to present their Independent Study Projects to the rest of their competitors.  Of the tribe that wins this round, only one member will be able to call themselves the FSP Champion.  Let’s see how it turns out!”

            Tribe 1 wowed the crowd with their presentations.  Josh presented on the spread of Christianity in the Aegean, and Mike followed this with his study on the fortifications of the Copaic region.  Kelsey went third, describing the relationship between Mycenaen art and similes in the Iliad.  The team closed with Chris, who talked about changes in cavalry in the Classical period.  Tribe 2 came back with a presentation on gorgons as the manifestation of earth goddesses by Kinsey.  Brooks spoke about Minoan roadways, and Lizz came next with depictions in Geometric pottery of horses.  They closed with a speech by Ben on Byzantine basilicas.

            Seth considered carefully.  He decided, “All of these presentations were truly exceptional.  Since I cannot prove that one of your Independent Study Projects was better than the next, I will leave it for the group to decide who should win.”

            The contestants looked around, carefully surveying each other.  “Kelsey should win,” they decided, “for without the winning ticket she will never make it to her journalism internship for the summer in New York.”  Kelsey thanked the group with her eyes tearing up, and the competitors looked around, realizing that this would be the last time they would all be together in Greece.

DVD SPECIAL FEATURES Cast Interviews              We asked a few of our contestants to reminisce about their favorite moments from the entire competition.  Here is a recap of some of the most popular choices: Riding donkeys in the rain up the mountain on SantoriniCelebrating May Day with the generous Spartans who gave us the delicious food from their barbequeVisiting the Turkish bath

Hiking Karphi on Crete

Visiting the cistern at Mycenae with the group of loud Greek children 

Director’s Notes What If…? 

Pete had never gotten the original mohawk?

None of the hotels in Greece or
Turkey had internet?

The twelve year-old Turkish boy had been able to buy Kelsey?

Kyle had sold Liz for Turkish tiles?

The Herakleion Museum had been open?

Kyle had found the Lost Tholos Tomb of Mykonos?

Kristina hadn’t been around to look after Johann and Gahl?

We hadn’t watched Eurovision 2007?

There weren’t any free days?


DVD Special Feature: Alternate Ending


Seth Pevnick addresses the tribes from behind the theater of Thorikos, “This is an individual challenge, for the title of Ultimate Survivor.  There is a Mycenaean tholos tomb somewhere close by in Southern Attica.  Find it and victory will be yours.”  With the challenge set, everyone immediately broke off and went on his or her own way.


“A Mycenaean tholos tomb!” Kyle exclaims.  “But, Professor Rutter told us we wouldn’t see any more of these.  Gee willickers!  I will immediately depart from the Archaic theater at Thorikos in search of this veritable architectural treasure.”  The theater, by the way, is unlike Classical and Hellenistic theaters because the seats are not arranged in a semicircle around the orchestra.


Sly Seth Pevnick leads the alliance of Kristina Guild, Chris Blankenship and Johann Maradey to a circular stone building in the domestic quarter of Thorikos.  Don’t be fooled, children.  This is not a tholos tomb; these circular buildings have been found all over the countryside of Attica and were originally thought to be towers.  The discovery of similar buildings in the middle of cities seems to disprove this belief.  What were they?  We only know that they aren’t tholos tombs.


The obligatory ‘natural’ pose in front of a museum case (Laurion Museum).  No, Chris Blankenship and Kinsey Stewart, the tholos tomb is not in that display case.


When Kinsey Stewart realizes that the tomb isn’t in the museum, she returns to Thorikos to find it.  “Ahhhhhh!” Kinsey yells, as she gets washed away down the channel.  That isn’t a tholos tomb Kinsey; that’s an Attic washhouse.  The Athenians constructed these buildings near the silver and iron mines in Southern Attica and used water to separate ore from other solids.


Back at Thorikos, Mike Holmes says, “I think the tholos tomb is nearby.  I will unnecessarily climb this one meter tall retaining wall at Thorikos.  Look at that ladder-work masonry in the lower left hand corner.  That must point to the tholos.”  However, Mike doesn’t realize that the wall is from the Classical period and was constructed nearly 800 years after the tholos tomb.


Benjamin O’Donnell searches the silver and lead mines of Laurion.  No tholos tomb in here buddy, but that is some mighty fine ore.  Just the type of ore that the Athenians would have used as a major revenue source during the fifth century BC.


At the Laurion Museum, Kelsey Blodget and Kristina Guild discover that the frieze from the Doric temple of Poseidon at Sounion is carved in Parian marble, much like the marble they (and by they, I mean Kyle) discovered at Paros.  “Maybe we should go there, to Cape Sounion!” Kristina suggests.  Kelsey agrees.june-2_9.jpg

Others follow their lead to Sounion.  Josh Drake takes a moment to look at the foundation of the Temple of Athena Sounias.  But he doesn’t find much of the temple or any trace of the tholos tomb.june-2_10.jpg

Benjamin O’Donnell and Peter Kitlas realize what happened to the once visible temple that Pausanias describes as having been seen by sailors as they rounded Cape Sounion.  “I recognize what happened here,” Peter Kitlas says.  “The Temple of Athena Sounias is a ‘wandering temple’ and was torn down and re-erected in the Athenian agora.”  After this discovery, the boys forget the reason they came to Sounion– the tholos tomb – and they gallivant around, reenacting the ‘wandering temple.’june-2_11.jpg

Frustrated by the search, Christopher Blankenship resorts to violence and throws Peter Kitlas’s body in the harbor of Thorikos.  This harbor would have received shipments of grain for Athens, but today it receives Peter Kitlas.


“Maybe if I stand on the foundation of the cult statue of this little Doric temple next to the Temple of Athena Sounias, the Homeric hero Phrontis, to whom this temple was probably dedicated, would tell me where to search for the tholos tomb.”  Lizz Sigler says.  No dice; she gets lost and does not win.


Kelsey Blodget, Ray DiCiaccio, and Liz Stamoulis travel to the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion to search for the tomb and stop for a quick photo-op.  Clearly, they are not committed to the search.  The Doric, hexastyle temple was constructed in the middle of the fifth century.


Apparently, even the English poet Lord Byron thought that the tholos tomb was at theTemple of Poseidon at Sounion.  He carved his name into the antis of the temple.  It seems doubtful that Lord Byron ever found the tholos tomb.


Kristina Guild storms the fortification walls at Sounion to try to take the rest of the group by surprise.  However, she gets tired from her hike through the thorny brush and never makes it to the temple or the tomb.


Kristina Guild joins Johann Maradey, Kinsey Stewart and Kelsey Blodget for lunch at the beach and quickly gives up on the search.


They carry the R-and-R to the beach.  Do they seem dedicated to finding hidden Mycenaean tholos tombs?  Definitely not.


Ray DiCiaccio returns to Thorikos to find the tomb.  He learns that the tomb is on the mountain at Thorikos, but gets sad when he sees a fence blocking his way.


Nick Ortiz waited at Thorikos for everyone to come back.  The most unlikely of winners, Nick discovers the tholos tomb.  Nick says, “Tholos tombs are in the hearts and minds of all Greek FSPers.”  He poses in the tomb and rejoices his victory.


Johann Maradey comforts Ray DiCiaccio because of Ray’s near victory.  Ray DiCiaccio is convinced that Nick Ortiz’s cheesy discovery wasn’t the real tholos tomb.  Readers: Ray was right.  The real tholos tomb was on the mountain.  However, no one except Kyle Jazwa wanted to hike and find it.  Bad form, FSP.  Bad form.

Final Comments:

Everyone has enjoyed our eleven weeks in Greece, but we are also eager to return to America.  Many of us will be spending the summer working at internships or on-campus for Sophomore Summer.  Although we will all go our separate ways for the next three months, all but one of us will be back on campus for our Junior and Senior years.  Kristina is graduating with the rest of the Class of 2007 in less than a week, but we hope that she will come back to Dartmouth to visit her old FSP friends.

Kyle wishes we could blog every day of our lives.  He says, “I’m sure Caleb would love that.  We could all blitz a blog entry to him each day during the summer and he could post it on the web.  Sound good?  Alright…”

Unless the rest of the FSP takes Kyle up on his offer, this will be the last blog entry of the trip.  And so we say to you, dear readers, in case we don’t see you…“Good afternoon, good evening, and good night.”



Week 11

            “Sit in the square in the fashionable Kolonaki district of Athens for an hour and count the number of V-8 Jeep Grand Cherokees that drive by.  Do you know what the base sticker price for one of those is here?  $125,000.  Ridiculously expensive and completely useless, especially with gas prices at $5 a gallon.  So why do so many Greeks buy them? [Silence from FSP group.]  Because they’re cool.”  With this explanation, today’s guest lecturer Prof. Steve Diamant of the American School right here in Athens illuminated a simple phenomenon we often lose sight of in our high-flown bloviation about this type of archaeological artifact or that historical occurrence: plenty of what the Greeks said, did, and made have little more reason behind them than that they were pretty darn cool.  Put another way, there were many complicated cultural factors that determined why, say, the Greeks built the Parthenon or wrote so many tragedies, but you can be sure these things wouldn’t have been done if it had been considered uncool to do them. 

            Prof. Diamant’s Jeep-counting experiment was used specifically to shed light on why we have excavated Cycladic-style pottery in the Marathon area.  The finds, in the Marathon Museum, are ever-so-slightly different than the pottery of actual Cycladic provenance and seem to have exemplified what Prof. Diamant told us is called the “Louis XIV Effect”: just as Europeans monarchs everywhere in the 17th and 18th centuries couldn’t get enough Louis XIV-style interior furnishing for their own palaces, Bronze Age Greeks, for a short while, were just crazy about Cycladic pottery.  The imitation Cycladic ware here at Marathon affirms it: Cycladic was the new black.

            So travel back into antiquity with me as I journey around Rhamnous and Marathon, armed with only a Blue Guide, the expertise of Prof. Diamant, and a devastatingly snarky wit, to determine who and what were “in,” “out,” and “sooo five minutes ago” in their own times.


Simple funerary stelae: five minutes ago. 

You think that having a grave marker that measures less than three meters across is cool?  What century are you living in, the 6th BC?  Please.  As the high society ladies and gents of Rhamnous will tell you, when it comes to funerary monuments, bigger is better.  Take a walk along the road leading to the sacred enclosure where the temples of Nemesis and Themis are and you’ll see what’s hip nowadays: large-scale monuments to the (fashionable) deceased, with architectural flourishes, sophisticated sculpture, and inscriptions to let the world know that these certainly was not just the tombs of some nobodies.


Nemesis/Themis: in.

Who says the goddesses of righteous anger and of law and custom are minor?  You wouldn’t know it from visiting Rhamnous, where there is a magnificent temple district honoring both of them.  The 5th c. BC Doric temples in marble and limestone are fitting for two of the more unsung goddesses in the Greek pantheon, and it’s about time they’ve had their due.  Nemesis especially, who brings down mortals who get a little too full of themselves, is an especially handy goddess to have around in the 5th c. BC, when egos are running amok during and after the Persian War.


Persians: out!

Ugh.  Who would want to be seen hanging around with these Babylonian buzzkills?  After the Attic support of the Ionian Greek rebellion against Persian rule in the late 6th c. BC and the Greek destruction of Persian temples at Sardis, the Persians sailed across the Aegean to try take revenge on the puny but scrappy Athenians in 492 BC.  The first time they tried, those losers lost all their ships at sea.  Two years later, they sailed over to Attica again and arrayed something like 24,000 men against 8 or 9,000 Athenians and Plataeans on the Marathon plain.  After a few days of hesitancy on both sides, the Athenians charged and reached the Persian lines before their effete archers could even get arrows into their bows.  The Persians then fell for one of the oldest tricks in the book of military strategy: they were lured into the weak center of the Athenian battle line, allowing the Athenian wings to descend on them from both sides and wreck their forces.  Running away into the marshes, the Persians were made to look like complete pansies in front of the forces from two little Greek city-states.  Final score?  6,400 Persian dead to 192 Greek.  So much for the mightiest empire in the world!  Hey Persia, maybe you should send even more armies to Greece and see how that works out!  Time to rethink your cocky attitude, because as anyone who is anyone knows…


Hubris: five minutes ago.

…it isn’t even cool anymore to have unwarranted pride in your so-called abilities!  The Persians were so confident of impending victory at Marathon that they actually quarried an enormous chunk of marble at
Paros on the way over, from which to make a victory monument.  Oops!  It made for a very convenient Athenian statue of Nemesis though.  Perhaps the Persians would have benefited from a visit to the
Temple of Nemesis at Rhamnous themselves.  However, while we’ve all seen the folly of foolish pride here, you never know when hubris will be in again.  The Athenians have been acting like pretty hot stuff in the wake of the battle.


Miltiades: so in!

Here’s a general whose star is really on the rise.  Women want him, men want to be him (and probably want him as well—this is ancient Greece after all!).  One of the ten generals of the Athenians, Miltiades succeeded in persuading Callimachos the polemarch to attack the Persians and then led the Greeks to victory.  And the Ionic columnar monument in honor of the man’s victory?  In the words of Prof. Diamant, “Themistocles, eat your heart out!”

            So there you have it: the men and immortals to see and be seen with, the “what to do” and the “what not to do” of Classical Attica.  Join us next time, when we give the scoop on Grecian gadfly Herodes Atticus and the tough guys of the Spartan army—where were they on the plains of Marathon?



Napping is today’s theme. After a long ISP week and little sleep, everyone is exhausted. Here Kelsey takes advantage of a 10 minute break at the site of Rhamnous, our first stop of the day, to nap on the steps of what is thought to be the ancient temple to the goddess Nemesis.


The site of Rhamnous offers breathtaking views, especially looking out across the water Of Aghia Marina to the island of Euboea nearby. Kinsey takes photographs of the water. Meanwhile, Chris studies the layout of the cut marble blocks that make up the 45m platform on which the remains of the temples of Nemesis and Themis stand.  jun1_03.jpg

Ben, Chris and Johann sit on an ancient cistern, which supplied the whole sanctuary with water.


Kyle is all smiles as he helps our visiting lecturer Professor Diamond by holding up a map of the area for us all to see.


After our visit to the sanctuary we make our way to the site of the ancient town of Rhamnous. It is a ten minute walk down a rocky road from the sanctuary to the town.


As always I am fascinated by the plants and critters on-site. These white flowers are common at many of the sites we visited on the FSP. They remind me of giant snow flakes and host many different kinds of bugs. This silver and black bug is one I have not seen before.


The group walks back toward the bus after visiting the acropolis of Rhamnous. june1_08.jpg 

Johann lingers behind the group to take in the stunning views from the acropolis. He is looking toward Euboea. The Blue Guide describes Rhamnous as “one of the least spoilt sites in Attica.” We are all impressed by the beautiful scenery. Unfortunately, the whole site is not accessible to the general public, because there is a shortage of site guards.


On our way back to the bus, Professor Diamond calls our attention to the meticulous construction of retaining walls at Rhamnous. The great care taken in building these walls gives us an indication of how important and wealthy the ancient town must have been. Kinsey, Liz and Kelsey pose in front of one the retaining walls of the sanctuary.


Our next stop of the day is the Marathon Museum. Several people need a quick bathroom break before our tour of the museum. Everyone else waits on the front steps.jun1_11.jpg 

Inside, Professor Diamond points out the important topographical features of the area on a map, in preparation for our visit to the site of the Battle of Marathon.


As we pass by an exhibit devoted to the site of Marathon, Kyle pretends to be the god Pan. According to ancient sources Pan played a decisive role in the battle, which favored the Athenians. Nick steps into the frame to give us his signature wave.


Professor Diamond presents key aspects of the pottery assemblages in the museum’s collection.


Here, Professor Diamond explains the significance of a large ionic column fragment. This column would have held up the victory monument of the Athenians after the Battle of Marathon. It is likely that the victory monument was made up of the arms of fallen Persian soldiers.


Nick tells Kinsey what he knows about the Egyptian god Horace as they examine a representation of the god from the Egyptian sanctuary at Brexiza. The sanctuary was founded in Roman times on a small island at the centre of the Little Marsh, south of the plain of Marathon.


While we were in the museum, our bus driver went to repair the bus’ hydraulics. These repairs took a bit longer than expected. Several people took advantage of the down time to nap. Nick, Kyle and Ben nap on the stone wall of the museum compound.


Kinsey, Liz and Kelsey have the same idea as the men. But, they choose instead to nap in the shade.

Marathon! Our final site for the day is the location of the giant tumulus in which the fallen Athenians were buried after the battle. First, we sit in the shade while Professor Diamond shares his insight on the battle and the ancient sources who recorded it.


Respectful as ever, Kyle uses his treasured chunk of Parian marble to erect a victory monument to the Athenians. He also marks a moment of silence…


Stimulated by Professor Diamond’s talk about the Battle of Marathon, Nick, Josh, Chris and Mike continue the discussion of how the battle unfolded.


Final Comments:

Everyone is exhausted. Finally, the ISP has been completed and handed in to Professor Rutter for his evaluation. Throughout the day many people had difficulty staying focused, but Professor Diamond was very patient with us as our neurons crept along. Tomorrow is our last field trip of the term. Hopefully, after a full night’s rest we will all be bright-eyed and bushy-tailed.

Week 11

Date: May 31, 2007

Partners for the day: Johann Maradey (text) Gahl Rinat (pictures)

Sites: American and British School of Classical Studies

Museums: none

Principle Buildings/Monuments: none

Time Spent on Sites: 2 hours (4-6 PM)

Weather: Hot and Sunny

A really tired man once said, “I’m exhausted.” Eighteen Dartmouth FSP participants once said, “Dude, we’re exhausted.” Right after they said, “Dudes, where are there printers?”

I’m sure the preceding paragraph makes no sense to our avid blog readers, but let me inform you all that the preceding expressions have become familiar to us all. Why, you ask? We’ll, 2:00 PM this very day was the deadline for our so called Independent Study Projects. Independent they were, we had no friends while we were writing them. For the sake of privacy and efficiency everyone went their own way. Some stuck together, but for the most part everyone departed from Mykonos on the morning of May 24th for different parts of Greece (except Athens, no body wanted to go back to Athens, except Prof. Rutter).

A group of six, Kyle Jazwa, Gahl Rinat, Johann Maradey, Kristina Guild, Kinsey Stewart, and Kelsey Blodget, stayed on Mykonos for the 6 days. Despite Mykonos’ reputation as the prime party spot in Europe, the members of this 6 person party had their own festival to attend. It consisted mainly of homemade dinners, occasional visits to the beach, and early wake ups. As with any good festival, the end was the most exciting. Five of the six stayed up all night, worked through a boat ride, a bus ride, and short train ride in order to finish the paper just in time. Similar stories abound from other corners of Greece. Since these stories are too complicated to tell here, below are some brief quotes from others in the group:

“It was wicked fun”

-Ray DiCiaccio

“My feelings are very mixed. It was cool, seeing the pyramids and all, but parts of it were also the low points of the trip.”

-Josh “I spent my ISP break in EGYPT” Drake

“I’m not ready to talk about it.  It’s been hard for me.”

-Chris Blankenship

“My ISP break consisted of my hotel room and the only two restaurants open in Aghios Kyrikos on Ikaria.”

-Liz. Stamoulis

“Lots of writing and sitting. But the eating was delicious and so were the breaks at the beach (the nude beach!).”

-Kelsey Blodget

“Let me talk to you later, I need to sleep.”

-Johann Maradey

“Let me put it this way, I was so stressed that one day I ate 4 bags of chips for lunch.”

-Lizz. Sigler

The past week was the culmination of 3 months of intense research, and about a year of anticipation. Some people hammered (this means typed maddeningly fast in Dart-speak) out 10,000 or so words in several days, others did so in a more healthy manner. Whatever the case, everyone handed in (or are planning on doing so) specific reports on a topic of their interest, and which should have proved to be exciting. This of course varied—some people had exactly 38 or so pages, while others had up to 129. Either way, once the project was done the second challenge was to find a place to print it out. Most fulfilled that challenge, but some are still working on it. I’m sure there will be several people still trying to print their ISP tomorrow.

Upon arriving in Athens several of us went with Prof. Rutter to the Weiner Laboratory at the American School of Classical Studies and the Fitch Laboratory at the British School of Classical Studies. When we entered the American school, the atmosphere was immediately laid back and friendly. Dr. Sherry Fox began the discussion immediately as if she were speaking with fellow classicists. At the British school, we were greeted with handshakes by the director and offered snacks (almost like tea time). Despite being funded by specific countries, each school employs a large number of Greek and Turkish archeologists of varying specialties.

If you feel as if this blog has in some sense been incoherhent, then I have been successful in expressing to you all the general feeling of the group. Live long and pray that no ISP’s come your way.



May 31. 2007. Greek Standard Time: 11 00. Time ISP Paper Due: 14 00. Private Maradey puts the finishing touches on his paper. Go Johann, go!


May 31. 2007. Greek Standard Time: 12 30. Time ISP Paper Due: 14 00. ISP paper due date approaching. Kristina gets lost in a sea of trees at the subway station. “Where am I?” I don’t know Kristina, but with the paper coming up, my only advice is “RUNNNNNNNNN”.


May 31. 2007. Greek Standard Time: 13 50. Time ISP Paper Due: 14 00. A familiar scene by now. Prof. Rutter and Caleb arrange the rooming assignments at the Pan Hotel. Our favorite receptionist assists them in this miserable task.


May 31. 2007. Greek Standard Time: 15 00. Time ISP Paper Due: 14 00. The paper has been turned in! Prof. Rutter, Kinsey ’08, Kristina ’07, and a few others hit the streets in search of labs. Others stay in the room and sleep. Some begin partying at 14 01. Most importantly, as we say in Hebrew, “what was, was was, was was”.


May 31. 2007. Greek Standard Time: 15 45. Time ISP Paper Due: 14 00. The site of today: labs. Our group visited both the labs at the American School and the British School. Although this photographer did not participate due to sleep deprivation, those that went commented on the “cool” techniques, interesting explanations, and good-looking employees.  may31_06.jpg

Not much happened today. Only five photos are needed to really capture a day that involved transportation and recuperation. But having turned in our last academic assignment in Greece, some began to reflect on the trip. I would like to name this next series of photos “the times of Greece”. This photo: The Good Times – Kristina ’07 drives me down windy mountain road on a moped in Paros.

 may31_07.jpg The Bad Times – Ray ’09 tries to wakeup after a not so delicious breakfast in Istanbul. Early wake ups presented a serious obstacle to most members of the trip at various points.  may31_08.jpgThe Pretty Times Assos. Arguably the most beautiful site we visited in terms of the surrounding scenery. As a Brit would say “simply spectacular”. As Prof. Rutter would say “notice the topography”.  may31_09.jpg

The Ugly Times – Johann ’08 gets dominated in arm-wrestling by our Turkish tour guide Yildirim. Life sucks sometimes Johann. Deal with it

 may31_10.jpgThe Funny Times Kyle ’08 shows his “sexy pose” off in front of Hagia Sophia. Kyle, please show more respect in the future when visiting Islamic countries.  may31_11.jpg

The Sad Times – Kitlas ’09 sadly signs a piece of paper trying to protect some Roman Bath complex in Turkey that might be flooded by a new dam project.  may31_12.jpgThe Crazy Times How many Greek people can you fit into a VW bug? How many Greek people can you fit into the Museum at Mycenea. Apparently, a lot! may31_13.jpg

The Mellow Times Prof. Rutter eats a cookie while Mike ’08, Chris ’09, and Josh ’08 eat there own munchies. Relaxing in a field near Nemea, the group takes time too cool off before a race later that day.


The Healthy Times – Johann ’08 explains to Kinsey ’08 the merits of eating yogurt. Johann, yogurt may be better than some foods, but eating any dairy product with your finger is bound to get you into trouble one day. Who raised you?

 may31_15.jpg The Sick Times “Kristina, ya dead man?” “Ya man!” Kristina does not feel well after a day in bed in Thessaloniki. I am glad to say that she made it out just fine, but at the time she wasn’t looking so hot.  may31_16.jpgThe Short Times Johann ’08 hops on for a quick train ride. His evil grin shows that Johann was meant to be a train robber from an early age.  

may31_17.jpg The Long Times Caleb smokes in frustration when he finds out that we must wait three hours for the boat from Santorini to Paros. What he forgot, is that Greeks work on Greek time. may31_18.jpgThe Non-Academic Times – They say that the French men and Blond Americans of Athens know how to live life. Here yours truly and Lizz ’08 successfully show the rest of the group how “gangsters role”. may31_19.jpg

The Academic Times – Another site in the Argolid. Ben ’08 may take notes but Kinsey ’08, Liz ’08, and Brooks ’08 know what academics is really all about.

 may31_20.jpgOh the Times… – Prof. Rutter and yours truly take a photograph together in Turkey. Any trip for three months has its ups and has it downs. But man, was this a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  


Week 10 

Date: May 23, 2007

Partners for the day: Brooks Smith (text)  Pete Kitlas (pictures)

Sites: Delos

Museums: Delos Museum

Principle Buildings/Monuments: Delphian Temple, Athenian Temple, Naxian Colossus, etc.

Time Spent on Sites: from ca. 8:30 to ca. 13:30 [5 hours]

Weather: Partly Cloudy

Back home at Dartmouth, they just had Green Key Weekend. For those of you who don’t know, this is basically the spring term party weekend, when all the fraternities and sororities throw large parties with dancing, concerts, games, and general raucous. Interestingly, the students of the Classics FSP thought, this falls very close to the time that we are on the party island of Mykinos. Needless to say, we took advantage, and discovered that we are indeed in a small world. Yesterday afternoon, Chris Blankenship, Mike Holmes, Pete Kitlas, Ben O’Donnell, and Brooks Smith started off this partying atmosphere by taking the bus out to the well-known Paradise Beach. While there, we ran into a Canadian group that we had just seen on the island of Santorini a few days ago, who just happened to take a similar route to us through the islands. After enjoying the music from the beach club for a couple hours, we returned to our hotel.

Soon afterwards, most of us on the FSP, including Professor Rutter, headed out to what turned out to be a delicious Italian restaurant. There, a man walked up to our table and greeted our professor, who was quite surprised to see an old friend: a Ph.D. student he knows. After paying our nicely group-discounted bill, some returned to the hotel to do work, but most headed out to the famous club scene in the city.

The largest group, which included the writer of this blog entry, started out at the Bar Down Under (yes, it was indeed quite Australian), and then later moved on to the Scandinavian Club and Disco, where we danced the night away. While dancing, however, we had an interesting surprise; Ben O’Donnell had his Dartmouth class shirt on, and was spotted by a young woman … who turned out to be a Dartmouth alum from the class of 2002, on vacation with her sister. Just as surprised as we were to randomly see fellow Dartmouthians in a small club halfway around the world from out Alma Mater, we formed a Dartmouth dance circle and partied away. We finally returned to the hotel in staggered groups between 1:30am and 2:15am.

On a slightly more academic note, today we visited Delos, an entire island of nothing but archaeological remains. Two months ago, the island would have absolutely captivated us, but now it is merely an interesting place with a lot of the same things that we’ve seen before, though several quite new things. It was the heart of the Delian League, the grand “alliance” of the Athenians. The site was all-inclusive, with everything from a museum to a cafe all on-site on the island. It even had recently-added signs to explain various parts of the site to visitors, a rarity on French-excavated sites.

This is the last blog entry for the next seven days, as we now turn to some time for us to (hopefully) finish our independent study projects and/or go on vacation. While a large group is going together to the island of Paros in order to work on a quiet beach, most people are going out on their own to various parts of the Aegean. Below is a list of those places:

Kelsey Blodget, Kristina Guild, Kyle Jazwa, Johann Maradey, Nick Ortiz, Gahl Rinat, & Kinsey Stewart: The crazy group here will be renting an apartment on the island of Paros together, eating cheap food cooked by themselves, and enjoying the beaches of that beautiful Cycladic island. Oh yeah, and finishing those 10,000-word papers.

Chris Blankenship: Another ISP break, why not stay in the same place you stayed in before – especially when it’s free! Chris found a friend in a Christian lady located just outside of Athens who apparently makes delicious home-made food. There, he shall complete his military-themed paper.

Josh Drake: This insane young man finished his ISP during the first ISP break, so this break is a true vacation for him. Sick of looking at ancient Greek ruins, he shall be flying over to Cairo, Egypt, and looking at all the ancient Egyptian ruins there.

Mike Holmes & Ray DiCaccio: Remember all those climbing urges that we’ve been telling you about Mike holding back? Well, he’s not holding back any longer! He’s bringing Ray along to the island of Kalymnos in the Dodecanese, where they shall be scaling as many rock walls as they can find … and have time for in-between finishing up their papers.

Pete Kitlas: One of the people who will be traveling with an academic purpose, Pete shall head off to the islands of Syros and Tinos in the northernCyclades. There, he will hunt down churches which he will observe. I hear there are also nice beaches here.

Ben O’Donnell: “Wherever’s cheap,” he says. Ben shall be traveling to some yet to be determined island in the area where he can plant down and finish up that ISP. Later on, he may meet up with other people who are still in the area.

Lizz Sigler: Still a bit unsure as to how her ISP break will shape out, Lizz will probably be going to the beautiful Cycladic party island of Ios, and then later possibly meeting up with Pete Kitlas on Syros or Tinos.

Brooks Smith: The writer of this blog entry will be heading to Sitia, in eastern Crete, where he will base himself in the company of beautiful landscapes and beaches, as well as much better Greek food, on this southern island. Nearby, there are also the palaces of Palaikastro and Zakros, where he can observe more Minoan roadways.

Liz Stamoulis: The only real Greek on this FSP, Liz will be traveling to her family’s home island of Ikaria, just southwest of Samos in the Dodecanese, and having a working vacation there.

Caleb Chaplain: Ah, our dear Teaching Assistant. He has nothing to do for the next week! Or does he? Caleb will be living vicariously, going wherever the winds, and the beautiful men, wisp him away.

Professor Rutter: How could we forget our dear professor? He will spending four or five days back at our home base in the Pan Hotel in Athens, and then moving out for a couple of days to meet with colleagues at Messenia, before returning to Athens and being greeted by the smiling faces of his students one more time.

As we are all separated during this independent study project period, blogs will go on hiatus. Blog entries will resume for their last three days on Thursday, May 31st, when we reconvene in Athens, hand in our final ISPs, and wait as Professor Rutter and Caleb Chaplain grade our papers … all 600 pages of them.


The last day before our ISP break could not be complete without a little adventure.  The island of Delos, which was the only site on our itinerary for today is a perfect place for this.  It is an archaeological island which means that there is only archaeological remains on the island; nothing else.  It is basically an ancient ghost town.  On our way to the boat Josh Drake and Lizz Sigler ran into what they thought was a Pelican statue.  However, when it started to move they became a little scared.   may23_02.jpg

Before boarding the boat, Professor Rutter hands out the tickets to the group.  Here Liz Stamoulis cautiously takes a ticket with a distinct feeling that something fishy is in the air today.


Land Ahoy!  Kinsey Stewart, Lizz Sigler, and Chris Blankenship sight the island of Delos from the bow of our boat.  may23_04.jpg

Professor Rutter briefs the crew before we begin our tour around the island.  The dark clouds were gathering, the wind was picking up, and there was a slight mist coming down.  Professor Rutter told us that today we should not merely look at the remains, but visualize what the sanctuary would have looked like.  He suggested human models as a good way to do this. 


Gahl Rinat inspects a sign at the Stoa of Phillip V of Macedon.  This type of signage is new to the site as it was not here two years ago.  This is helpful because before visitors would need to pay for a guide or read a French Guidebook to have any understanding of the site.  It seems that now they are trying to lure individual tourists and couples to the island without guides.  


Heeding Professor Rutter’s advice, Mike Holmes stands in the statue base of the Naxian Colossus and recreates the monument.  While Mike Holmes gives it his best effort he cannot stand up to the grandeur of the actual statue which stood nine meters high. 


In an equally playful manner, Ben O’Donnell recreates a giant bronze palm tree dedicated by Nikias.  This giant palm tree eventually fell down and hit part of the Naxian Colossus.  Watch out Mike Holmes!


Ray DiCiaccio acts frightened after encountering the Monument of the Bulls.  After all of the weathering it is almost impossible to make out the actual bulls.  Little did we know, but all this mockery was going to get us into trouble.


As we exited the sanctuary and made our way to the high end housing, we passed the row of lions.  This is a very picturesque place, but something seemed a little fishy today.  The lions had some sort of life in them that we had never seen in statues before.


Chris Blankenship and Josh Drake confirm our suspicion of the lions.  While in the museum we were able to get a closer look at them.  We could see there veins pumping and then they began to move!


SUPER RUNAWAY!  The lions are after us.  After the constant mockery and attempts to recreate statues, the statues have become humans.  They have decided to gain revenge by chasing us down.  Brooks Smith leaps over blocks in an attempt to escape the wrath of the lions.


Kinsey Stewart tries to camouflage herself so that the lions do not recognize her as human.  Here she is pretending to be the head of the Naxian Colossus.


Professor Rutter tries a similar tactic.  However, he attempts to blend into the pelvic area of the Naxian Colossus.  Unfortunately for Professor Rutter, his pelvis is not quite as large as the Naxian Colossus and the lions have caught on.  


The group starts climbing up the hill to find shelter in an abandoned house.  The walls are fairly strong as they have been preserved three and a half stories high.  I think an attack from stone lions might make them crumble though.  Here we stopped only briefly to think of our next step.


Luckily we had Kyle Jazwa and his rope.  Johann Maradey, Gahl Rinat, and Ben O’Donnell watch in anticipation as Kyle measures the water depth in a basin at the house.  Unfortunately, it was almost ten feet deep.  We realized this would not make an ideal hiding place from the lions because we would be forced to tread water. 


The group decides to make our way to the highest part of the island: Mount Cynthus, which rises 350 feet above the island.  Hopefully, the higher ground will give us some advantage in fighting off the ravage beasts.  may23_17.jpg

At the top of the mountain Kelsey Blodgett stands in confusion.  “What are all of these rock piles doing here?” she exclaims. 


Josh Drake, Kyle Jazwa, and Ben O’Donnell decide to build a stone tower as a last attempt at warding off the attacking lions.  Fortunately, this was the key to the mystery.  As soon as the tower was complete, the lions froze and became lifeless stone. 


The group that made it up to the mountain raises their hands in the same style as a Minoan Goddess with upraised arms.  Unfortunately, the group did not seem to learn the lesson today and still decide to mimic ancient artwork.  Hopefully none of us will step foot on Crete anytime soon!


“GO TEAM VENTURE”.  I’m not quite sure why they do that, but after a mystery is solved Kinsey Stewart and Lizz Sigler always like to have a short victory celebration. 

Final Comments:

As we approach the end of our time together on this FSP, we look back and see an amazing time that we’ve shared together, filled with hundreds of archaeological sites, great parties and movies together, and huge amounts of Greek cuisine – especially those fast-food gyros. As we prepare to go our separate ways over this ISP break, it’s like a preview of what’s to come; we shall see each other occasionally on campus, but we will likely never again spend so much time together as a group. We all look forward to getting home to our other friends, families, and places where we will no longer need to live out of suitcases, but yet there is still a sense of sadness as we prepare to end our FSP together. One thing is for sure, though, despite the love that all of us share for antiquity, none of us will be able to look at many more archaeological remains for a while without losing our Parian marbles.

Week 9 

Date: May 22

Partners for the day: Kinsey Stewart (text) Lizz Sigler (images)


Museum(s): Paros Museum, Mykonos Museum

Principal Buildings/Monuments:

Time Spent on Each Site:  from ca. 9 a.m. to ca. 3 p.m. [6 hours]

Weather:  Overcast, humid, light drizzle

Another grey day in the supposedly-sunny Cyclades has passed, and our parkas continue to get more exercise than our sunglasses (practical or ridiculously European).  Our FSP seems to be cursed with poor weather these past few days, no doubt a direct result of our continued failure to offer the proper sacrifices at the plethora of temples we visit.  Should any of the blog readers feel so inclined as to offer up a hecatomb to the gods asking for sunny days and cool breezes on our behalf we would be most appreciative, as we foolishly forgot to pack a spare hundred oxen or so with our luggage.   

As we continue our island hopping, our schedule has been dictated in equal parts by the weather and by oft-unreliable boat schedules.  Witnessing the great hubbub involved in getting from one island to another with the modern ferry system Greece is so reliant upon makes one wonder at how things would have worked in antiquity.  As radically different as the two would have been, on certain basic levels very little has changed.  In the tightly-clustered Cyclades, ferry routes tend to hug shore as they move from island to island rather than boldly striking out into open ocean, and while the “speedjet” we boarded for our 40-minute cruise from Paros to Mykonos was full of modern conveniences, something in the galley-like arrangement of the passenger seating made it apparent that should the engines come to an unexpected halt, oars would be handed out and we would be rowing into port trireme-style.  It is doubtful, however, that ancient Greek marauders would have played tinny, ice-cream van versions of “The Blue Danube” over terracotta loudspeakers to warn passengers that the boat was pulling away from the dock. 

The question of exactly how and when the Greek islands were settled and populated is one that is still heavily and enthusiastically debated, as the answer may prove key to understanding early human movement by boat in other parts of the world.  On display in the museum at the port city of Paros are finds from the earliest Neolithic settlement in the Cyclades.  What is most striking about these artifacts, however, is not their date of origin, but what their forms can tell us about the people who made them, as many of the pottery shapes find their closest contemporary analogs not in the Greek mainland but in south-western Turkey. 

Standing on the shore and looking out over the water to the low mountain ridge that marks the next island over, it is easy to understand how the human need to push on, to explore, could have been cultivated in a place like this.  Standing on the deck of a ship, feeling the wind, the spray of water, and the sudden, intimate knowledge of the immense nature of the sea and one’s own relative smallness and insignificance in the face of its unfeeling power, it is hard not to marvel at the guts of the first homo sapiens who hollowed out a tree trunk and intentionally pushed forward on such a voyage.

Despite Poseidon’s rumblings and the worrisome grey cast to the sea and sky, we made it to our final port of call in one piece.  We will need all of our human sense of exploration if we are to safely navigate the streets of our latest destination, however.  Mykonos is a mad maze of white-washed buildings, blue shutters, and faux-cobblestone streets.  Trees covered with blooming pink and white blossoms stand guard over this labyrinth, haunted more by tourists than by Minotaurs.  Making our way back from the museum on the shore up the hill to our hotel was a tentatively-partaken adventure full of wrong turns and desperate glances to the side for landmarks.  Most of us have made it back, but the organizing of search parties is not yet out of the question.  Further sacrifices may be required to ensure the safe return of those addled by the liquid entertainment of Mykonos’s famed beach and club scene. 


Leaving the Hotel Francisco, Kinsey is attracted to the rental ATVs and reminisces about riding them back in Arkansas.  In the background a cruise liner to Mykonos pulls out of the harbor.


The Paros harbor is filled with fishing boats.  Watching the local fishermen making nets and taking care of there equipment is an everyday sight for local Greeks, but pretty intriguing to us.


At the Paros museum, Chris takes a picture of a geometric pot discovered in the main cemetery of ancient Paros.  This pot, along with the one behind it, is from the 8th century BCE and contained the ashes of dead warriors.  The unique scenes of mounted fighters are of particular interest because they may be evidence that warfare on Paros, and perhaps on other Cycladic islands, was different than we originally perceived.


Battle of the acroterial sculpture!  In the middle of the 6th century BCE, experimentation in the iconography used for acroterial sculpture was taken.  The Gorgon and the Nike faced off, with Kyle and Nick each picking a side.  In the end, the Nike won and became one of the common acroterial decorations along with the tripod, disc, and floral ornamentation.  Sorry, Kyle, there is no way you could defeat that angelic face.  Nice try though.


Yowzers!  Caleb gives quite the stare as he fans out the money he’s collected from the group.  We each had to pay for our hotel rooms individually.  When we first arrived on Paros we hotel hunted and found the place ourselves.  Let me tell you, collecting money from 16 students and 1 professor is not an easy task.


Since the Cyclades has decided to be nonconformist this year, giving us inclement weather instead of the usual bright, sunny skies, Kitlas soaks up the only rays he can find by the pool.  The beautiful sunset is almost an adequate substitute for the real thing.


A storms a brewing.  Nick gives his usual hokey wave in front of the windmill at the Paros harbor as we board the ferry.  Behind him clouds gather and we all pray to Zeus that the rain will avoid us so we can go to the beach.


On the boat we are all forced to sit in our assigned seats, despite the fact that we seem to be the only ones on board.  Caleb, Ray, and Ben get saucy as I try and take a picture.


Beautiful Mykonos!  The glorious island we’ve been hearing about since the trip began, yields nothing but clouds and a light rain shower.  Here groups of people huddle together under umbrellas in the harbor.


Gahl and Kyle play volleyball with their rainbow bouncy ball while we wait for our ride to the hotel.  Oh, you zany kids, quit making a scene.


What’s that strange creature!  A pelican lands on a nearby truck and our T.A. freaks out a little.  Lucky we snapped a picture before it flew off.


Aw, Mike, you look so happy to be here.  The beautiful Mykonos landscape stretches behind Mike as he sits on the wall in front of our hotel.


At the Mykonos Museum, Ben, Kyle, Kinsey, and Kelsey look at the famous Mykonos pithos portraying the Trojan War.  The neck of the amphora contains a scene of the Greeks within the Trojan horse and the body contains scenes of Greeks doing terrible things to Trojan women and children.  Nothing brightens your day like pictures of people being impaled.


Oh my God!  Guys, get out of the Trojan horse.  Who do you think you are?


Usually I comment on the on-site signage, but today we found bizarre signs on the boat, the streets, and in the hotels instead.  Starting from the center and moving clockwise we see a “Removal of Signs” sign; a shackling “Passengers Stay Seated” sign from the ferry; a “I Don’t Know What the Heck This Ferry Sign is About” sign; a “Hard Guy” sign from the hotel lobby; a “Pretty Unsubtle” sign from a local Mykonos club, a “B-side Hotel” sign from our hotel; an “Drink and Sail” sign from the ferry; and, finally, an “Embarkation Station” sign.


On a more serious note, Kristina had to go to the hospital today and was diagnosed with a respiratory infection.  Thankfully she came back to us safe and sound with a cool party favor, an x-ray of her lungs.  Here, she gives us a look at her innards.  Ew!


It’s the end of the day and time for the beach.  Several people need to stay behind at the hotel to give oral presentations, but roughly a third of the FSPers make it to Paradise Beach.  As you can see, the name aptly describes the location.


Brooks, Mike, Kitlas, and Blankenship arrive and stake their claim in a couple of lounge chairs. 


Although the beach is hopping, the boys decide it’s a good idea to work on their journals before they go swimming or fall asleep in the sun.  With plenty of 20-something girls around, this is a difficult task indeed.


A beautiful end to a beautiful day.  The sun sets over Mykonos as the FSPers prepare to go out to dinner.  A feast of plenty awaits them, for Mexican, Chinese, and Italian restaurants are abundant here.  We are all pretty sick of the monotonous menus we’ve been finding elsewhere.


Along with our plague of bad weather, The Plague and a barrage of other illnesses and minor injuries have caught up with our FSP.   Shy now of the finish line by just under two weeks and with our second ISP week looming before us, Murphy and his accursed law seem to be having his way with us.  Scalps have been burned, feet have been bitten by spiders, fluids have been booted, and blood has been coughed.  The last one resulted in a chest x-ray for Kristina, who has fortunately been given the all-clear by the Mykonos public health system, who did the exam and x-ray for free.  Thumbs up to them from Kristina.  The rest of the afflicted continue to eschew island cuisine in favor of soup in order to facilitate the healing process.  On the plus side, as the day faded (and after much of this blog was written) the sun came out again, promising glorious days on the beach to come.

Week 9
Date: 21 May 2007
Partners for the day: Mike Holmes (text) Ray Di Ciaccio (images)
Site(s): Cemetery in Parikia, around Parikia, Koukounaries, beach at Kolimvythres
Museum(s): None
Principal Buildings/Monuments: Venetian Kastro, Temple of Demeter, Panagia Ekatontapyliani
Time Spent on Each Site: from ca.8:45 to ca. 5:00 [8 hours]
Weather: Very annoyingly partially cloudy.

Murphy’s Law: Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong.

While sitting on the beach at Kolimvythres today, it occurred to me how relevant Murphy’s Law has been to the past few days of the program. I was in a state of rather chilly relaxation, waiting for a single cloud to pass and give our stretch of sand the little bit of sun it needed to become a perfect paradise of the Cyclades. Two hours later, the cove was still shrouded in shadow and my patience was wearing thin. Some group reasoning followed, and with the same power of collective intelligence which both Athenian democracy and desperate Who Wants to Be a Millionaire contestants relied upon, we determined that the cloud was forming directly over the northern section of Paros, being carried by wind currents towards the north, and immediately dissipating no more than a kilometer or two out to see. The end result was a frustrating little umbrella of water vapor, locked into the perfect position to shield the best beaches of Paros from glorious sunlight and allow the rest of the island to bask in warmth and happiness. Of course, the cloud dissipated as soon as we made our departure for the small town of Naoussa, which I might add, was delayed an hour due to a little boat stranding us by leaving ten minutes earlier than scheduled. Since when is public transit ever early? I guess it all just goes along with the trend of getting poured on in Santorini, having a delayed ferry due to a mysterious “accident,” ATMs which don’t dispense cash, and the plague which has been constantly ravaging the group and today took Liz, Kyle, and Johann out of action.
Bad luck aside, Paros is certainly a nice island with a number of interesting sites and an illustrious history. For millennia it had been famed for its esteemed white marble, out of which were fashioned such great works as the sculpture on the Temple of Zeus at Olympia and Napoleon’s tomb. It was the export of this excellent stone which ensured Paros’ prosperity from the Early Cycladic period onwards. Although we did not have the time to visit the ancient quarries, evidence of the material’s abundance is everywhere. One perfect example is provided by the kastro of Parikia, which was built by the Venetians in 1260 A.D. Its wall of gleaming marble blocks, many of which were robbed from the nearby Temple of Demeter, makes a striking appearance. Even if much of the wall is composed of spolia, the use of marble as a fortification building material is evidence that there is no shortage of it on the island.
The two other sites we visited in our walk around Parikia were also rather impressive. The first was an ancient cemetery, which has been monumentalized by its excavator with high walls and a rather elaborate fence. Sadly, that fence is getting a bit rusty and the once notable signage is rapidly becoming unreadable. However, this does not detract from the great finds discovered within, which we will see tomorrow in the archaeological museum. Originally excavated due to threatened development, the site was found to yield remains ranging from the 7th century B.C. to late Roman times.
What the cemetery lacked in terms of visual stimulus was completely made up for by Panagia Ekatontapyliani, a magnificent cathedral dating to 326 A.D. The name literally translates as Our Lady of the Hundred Gates. Although such a number may be a bit exaggerated, the multiple-building complex and its surrounding portico certainly do not fail to impress. Once again local Parian marble showed up in construction, most notably in the columns of Agios Nikolaos, the central church. Unfortunately, our bad luck continued to follow us, and we choose to visit on what may very well be the only Monday of the month with mid-morning services. We were thus unable to get a close look at the interior of Agios Nikolaos, and had to content ourselves with the imposing Baptistery and courtyard instead.
The final and most dramatic academic site of the day was to be found at Koukounaries, a rocky acropolis near the town of Naoussa. Getting there was rather an adventure, involving a very crowded bus ride across the island, a short hop on a boat across Plastira Bay, and a fun scramble up a boulder field to the beautiful viewpoint at the top of the hill. Koukounaries is notable for its continuity in settlement from Mycenaean to Geometric times, the transition between which would have been a very bad period indeed to be alive. The combination of a massive systemic collapse and Dorian invaders brought about population declines of up to 90 percent in some places. The settlement is thus identified as a refuge, a place where people could have lived without fear of being suddenly overrun by wandering bands of warriors. Although the hill is low enough to make a practical location for a town, it would certainly be easy enough for a relatively small number of defenders to dispatch with a group of thugs struggling up the slope under the heavy weight of armor and weaponry. Perhaps its inhabitant managed to avoid the bad luck which has lately failed to release its icy grasp on the heels of the FSP. Let us hope that Mr. Murphy chooses to relax with the rest of the group on the warm, enticing, and oh so liberal sands of infamous Mykonos tomorrow. Until than…

The group welcomed the sunny weather early this morning – a nice change from the weather we experienced on Santorini. Krisitina came well-prepared for either sun or rain today.
After several days of “vacation” on Santorini, the group is struck by a wave of exhaustion early in the day. Now is this due to the sun, the time or the return to an archaeological site?
On our way through the city of Parikia, we saw a worker cutting some marble for the curb. Something tells me the ancient Greeks didn’t do it this way.
Gahl does his best impression of Mike as he scales a spolia-filled Frankish defense wall.
I think this must be where they got the colors for the Greek flag: the whitewashed city and the blue sea. Liz tells me that I’m wrong, but I don’t believe her.
Even our resident “guy who always knows where he’s going and never ever gets lost” (Josh) can become confused in the labyrinthine streets of the Cycladic cities.
One of the largest churches in the Cycladic Islands is here in Parikia. It is known as the Ekatondapyliani or “The One Hundred Gated.” There is an interesting legend associated with the building: the church was designed by Isidore of Miletus but was built by his student Ignatius. It was such a beautiful building that Isidore became extremely jealous and fought with Ignatius on the roof, from which both of them fell to their deaths.
Liz and Kelsey stand in the upper balcony of the Ekatondapyliani looking down on the service taking place below. Today was the Feast Day of Constantine and Helen, so there were services being held in both churches that we visited today.
After our tour through Parikia, the group headed off to the city of Naoussa by means of a very crowded bus. The trip was justified by a visit to a Mycenaean site but the real destination was the beach.
All around Paros we noticed that many of the stray dogs were exceptionally fat. As you can see from Kelsey’s expression, this dog was not only fat but also incredibly ugly.
From Naoussa we took a boat to get to the Mycenaean site (and beach!). Caleb was very excited about this trip to say the least.
I was also pretty excited to be heading off to the Mycenaean acropolis of Koukounaries. It had been a while since we saw a Mycenaean site; some of us were experiencing withdrawal symptoms.
Kristina, Gahl, Kelsey and Kinsey hike, climb, and scramble up the rocks to the Mycenaean acropolis. It was probably the most climbing we’ve done yet – as opposed to simply hiking up a hillside. We almost lost Chris on several occasions.
Sadly the clouds rolled in soon after we arrived at Koukounaries. (Murphy’s Law of the FSP #1: If there’s a day at the beach, it will be cold and cloudy.) “If you stare at the clouds, your eyes will shoot photons at them, and they’ll move.” Or so claimed Pete.
Here the group (or what remained of it by this point) stands at the Mycenaean acropolis with our next destination (the beach) far below in the background.
The group lounged around for much of our time at the beach because of the clouds – Pete wasn’t doing a very good job of moving the clouds around. A few people still attempted to catch some sun, though.
Apparently Gahl didn’t do so well in high school physics – and he must not have spent much time around see-saws either. Getting off the chair while Kristina sat on the end was (according to Kristina) “the dumbest thing Gahl’s done… today.”
The sun peaked out for a minute or two every once in a while – a few members of the group dared the water (and it actually wasn’t too bad).
Murphy’s Law of the FSP #2: Once we leave the beach, the sun will come out. Nick, Ben and Pete hang out on some medieval fortifications, taking in the sun.
Kyle and Ben show off a piece of Parian marble that Kyle and Johann picked up when they visited the quarry.


Today was a day of fragmentation. We lost Lizz at the start of the day – she was feeling sick and stayed behind at the hotel. As the group headed off to Koukounaries and the beach, we lost Kyle and Johann because Kyle was also feeling sick. Kyle ended up making a speedy recovery, and they rented an ATV. While the group relaxed at the beach, they cruised around the area visiting a Hellenistic tower, the Parian marble quarry, a prison, a landfill, a shanty town and a monastery. Gahl and Kristina splintered off from the group after we left the beach. They rented a moped and rode around for about four hours. We also lost Caleb at the beach somehow… We began the day with 18 FSPers, and we finished with 12 on the bus ride back to our hotel. Now we’re all back safely and the ATVers and moped-ers are taking a group of us to dinner on the outskirts of Parikia.

Week 9
Date: May 20, 2007
Partners for the day: Chris (text) Gahl (pictures)
Sites: Athinio, a Modern Port of Santorini
Museums: none
Principle Buildings/Monuments: The departure terminal
Time Spent on Sites: from ca. 12:30 to ca. 3:00 [2.5 hours]
Weather: Sunny with a pleasant breeze

This morning we were greeted with a rather pleasant surprise—sunlight. We have all be repeatedly lectured in Hanover on how dry this country is, and our experience over the past month and a half has confirmed our esteemed professors, so naturally we all were looking forward to a sun-filled week of frolicking in the Cyclades before committing ourselves to finishing our beloved ISPs. With our first two days thwarted, the sun creeping through the blinds on our windows was a welcome gift.

As our bus to the dock did not leave until noon, we took advantage of a morning off to relax and have a leisurely meal. Most of our number went to Mamma’s, a place known for delicious pancakes, eggs, hash browns, bacon (real bacon, a treat we have not had since we left the States), Heinz ketchup, American maple syrup, and an old lady called Momma who says “Momma loves you, babies” and promised to cut her hair into a mohawk like our esteemed Pete Kitlas before she dies.

While the buses on Santorini have thus far been timely and have managed to avoid being stuck in the middle of the road like those we took on Aigina, we nonetheless managed to have another incident with our travel. Our boat was scheduled to leave at 1:00, but at 11:00 the dock received word that there were problems with the boat and it would not be able to make it to Santorini and take us to Paros until 5:00. However, things being the way they are, the powers that be neglected to inform anyone until Professor Rutter went to the desk at 1:15 and asked how late the boat would be. As a 5:00 departure would put us on Paros at 10:00 or later and we have to find hotels upon our arrival, this was widely considered unacceptable. Fortunately, Professor Rutter was able to secure passage on a faster boat that would get us to Paros at roughly the same time as our original transport. Unfortunately, we were left with a few hours to kill in the very small port. Some of us played soccer, others napped on the concrete, others worked on papers and presentations, some chose to take advantage of the sun to dry yesterday’s wet clothes, but we all managed to find something to do.

Our boat finally arrived at the time it when it had been scheduled to depart, and after a swarming horde of tourists disembarked, the horde of tourists to which our group found itself amalgamated swarmed aboard the ferry. Unlike the voyages of the ancients who we have chosen to study, our trip was uneventful; sadly, we neither were boarded by pirates nor were our nautical skills tested by a character-revealing storm. Instead, we gave presentations on the art and architecture that we saw a week ago at Delphi, read, napped, and worked once more on our beloved ISPs.

Upon disembarking in Paros, a swarm of hotel proprietors flocked to us, all seeking to lure us into their fine establishments. Breaking off into groups of four, we investigated our potential lodgings for the evening. Remarkably, we were able to find beachfront housing for fourteen euros a person, and we happily piled into the hotel’s van and settled into our lodging for the next few days.

Our hotel was extremely happy to have our company; a half hour after our arrival they called us all down into the hotel bar and gave us a free round of ouzo, an alcohol made from the fourteenth pressing of grapes and flavored with black licorice.

After our free drinks, we wandered forth to find dinner and the evening’s entertainment. Our intentions were to enjoy a leisurely meal before finding a place to dance and relax.

It is remarkable how much finding a fellow native English speaker can excite us. After two months together, most of us are desperate for conversations with people a little different than the average Classics student. Fortunately, tourist season has begun, and we have begun to encounter more and more American and British travelers. It is a breath of fresh air. As Johann said, “It’s interesting to see what sort of travelers you meet, to hear their perspective on the culture we’ve been living in.” We’re all feeling a bit disconnected from home, from being able to interact with anyone we meet on the street.

Today was one of those “transportation days”. Basically, we did very little. My aim in taking these photos is not to recap the day but rather to reveal the idiosyncrasies of each character in our group. In addition, some photo captions will begin with a saying representative of that character. All comments are meant in humor and should be taken with a grain of salt. Let the games begin… “Professor Rutter, look at this bug. Species of beetle number 48759423. It’s quite peculiar, wouldn’t you say?” – Kristina Guild ’07 loves nature, bugs, and photos. But in this photo she lays peacefully in bed not yet ready to begin with today’s activities
“So do not fear, for I am with you; do not be dismayed, for I am your God. I will strengthen you and help you; I will uphold you with My righteous right hand.” – Isaiah 41:10 – Josh ’08, our resident Christian, has a puritan sense of time. Despite his visible frustration the rest of the group lags behind. Ms. Drake, you raised a son who always knows how to get to the front.
“Dude, like dude, dude, dude, dude, uhhhh, why are girls even in this blog entry? It’s HARD GUY HOUR!” – Nick ’08, our resident “man”, has no shame in revealing his identity. No shirt, no visible hands, and no shame are his code of conduct.
“I HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE HATE GREEK FOOD. Guys, seriously, we need to spend every single second, minute, hour, day in Athens at the Noodle Bar” – Kelsey ’08 has a certain sense of style. Witty comments alongside with girly cravings, she knows how to sip her smoothie with true posh.
“I’d like that. That’s nice. I’m doing fine” – Ray ’09, our resident “nice guy”, never has any “beef” with anyone. A little kitten, he must also have a secret sharp nail.
“Notice the ashlar masonry, differential treatment, and topography. I submit…” – Professor Rutter ‘1900, our resident “old papa”, always takes a peak into holes, even if they aren’t archeological.
“This stuff is EXPENSIVE” – Mike Holmes ’08 manages to save money by not falling into tourist traps. He also enjoys climbing onto everything. “Monkey-ing around”, Mike jumps onto Chris ’09 to satisfy his needs for the day.
Lizz ’08 chills with a Mythos beer while waiting for the boat to Paros. Rolled up jeans, a good drink, and sunglasses remain her perennial trademarks. Keep up the good work Lizz, you sure know what carpe diem means.
“Oh my god, like, that’s SOOOO crazy” – Liz ’08 throws a funky look after some obnoxious comments made by males sitting around her. Liz already has a reputation for being strong, throwing looks, and fluctuating her pitch.
“ZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz” – Ben ’08 demonstrates his capability to sleep in almost any location. Ben knows that work-hard play-hard also means sleep-hard. But how hard is a slab of concrete to sleep on?
“Clown who is not a clown but on second thought really is a clown” – Kyle ’08 sustains this grin while expelling his comedic satire onto members of the trip. Lesbian polygonal masonry, Prof. Rutter’s neck, and nipples are among his favorite topics.
“Oh, that reminds me of a story. Once…” – Kinsey ’08 LOVES to tell stories. In fact, she tells the same stories multiple times. But with her enthusiasm they provide free entertainment every time. Notice Santorini in the background.
“Olive groves are where it is at!” – Caleb ’08 smokes a “cig” on the boat. Famous for getting grouchy at late arrivals, late blog entries, and even late soap operas, Caleb gives the impression that he lives life like a Swiss watch. I will let others be the judge of that.
“Uhhhh…… ummmmmmmmmm” – Brooks ’08 likes to say things in his quirky sort of way. He also disassembles laptops for fun, always carries around a thirty pound backpack, and has taken more photos than the rest of this trip combined. Basically, don’t mess.
“Did you finish your paper yet?” – Chris ’09 stresses while working on his journal entries. This may be because he cannot find words to describe those war heroes that he knows so well. But hey, we all have difficultly finding words to describe certain people.
“How should I prank my next victim?” – Pete ’09 masterminds many of the small pranks that have been pulled on this trip. Fidgeting his fingers he plots the next few. Hopefully I will not be a victim again.
“Dude, this is phenomenal. It’s amazing. Like, Leonidas was here.” – Johann ’08 always uses powerful language. In this photo, he points with his finger towards the “incredible” apple pie he just had.
Ray ’09 and Kyle ’08 throw the “make-out” eyes at one another while eating the same noodle strand. “Friends, friends, friends, we will always be. Whether in heather or dark stormy weather its Greek FSP to keep us together.”
XoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXoXo – translated into English: 16 kisses. This photo is for all the mothers, girlfriends, and potential girlfriends out there.

Final Comments

Our hotel was filled with some interesting individuals. There was the standard assortment of tourists, but in addition there were the two young women from California, one of whom was traveling about Europe after a year in college and the other was on vacation before spending the summer working in Naxos. The most interesting individual was a worker at the hotel who had a voice so raspy even Caleb and Professor Rutter had issues understanding his Greek. Unfortunately for those of us who are easily startled, he had a tendency to appear from nowhere and send tremors down our spines.