Date: Wednesday, April 24, 2007
Partners for the day: Johann (text) Kristina (images)
Site(s): Keramaikos site and museum
Museums: National Archaeological Museum
Principal Buildings/Monuments: Dipylon and Sacred Gates, Pompeion, several grave mounds
Time Spent on Site: from ca. 8:15 AM to ca. 5:00 PM [ _9__ hours]
Weather: Sunny and Beautiful
After a necessary and rewarding five day break spent in different locations related to individual Independent Study Projects, the entire group reconvened for what promised to be an exciting day exploring the Keramaikos site, the Classical location of smiths and potters that included areas both inside and outside the city walls, and the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. Some wanted another free day, others were slow to wake from an “interesting” Monday night full of reestablished friendships, but the general feeling amongst all was one of a fresh start. Having started promptly at 8 am, Prof. Rutter led the way to the Keramaikos excavation site through Monastiraki Square and west on Ermou Street. At first glance, the state of preservation of the Keramaikos and the orderly arrangement of the remains stood out.
Promptly, our guide, Seth Pevnick, a Dartmouth Class of 1999 Alumnus and Classical Archeology major, arrived and began our tour with a brief description of his life since graduation. After spending 2 years teaching second grade students for Teach For America, a non-for-profit designed to allow graduated college students to test their passion for teaching, Seth decided to enroll in a M.A. in Ancient Archaeology at UCLA. He is presently spending one year at the American School of Archaeology in Athens, after which he plans to pursue his Ph.D (a 3 year commitment).
Anyways, after this brief introduction, the entire group relocated to the top of the South Hill, a small mound outside of the Ancient Walls and overlooking the ancient burial mounds. Directly in front of us the remains of the Themistoklean Wall, first built in 478 BC, stood about 4 m high. The original Classical Wall, constructed hastily while Themistokles stalled Spartan opposition, was 2.5 m wide and had 8 m of mudbrick fortification above the stone layers. Although these fortifications were quite strong in 420 BC, during the Peloponessian War (330-304 BC), a porteichisma, or “wall in front of a wall” was added. At its most elaborate, the Athenian fortifications consisted of four layers of defense; a palisade followed by a moat, then the porteichisma and eventually the tall and hefty city wall. These features, despite their 3000 year existence, are clearly distinguishable since the Keramaikos was in a natural hollow that rapidly filled and preserved the walls. A quick rate of filling also meant that the height of the wall decreased significantly over several hundred years, thus forcing later generations to constantly build atop the wall. The result of this rapid “fill and build” cycle is a well stratified wall with different courses telling the story of different centuries. The remains of the wall thus provide a perfect example of the evolution of wall building from the 4th century BC to the 6th century AD.
After studying the remains of the walls, we moved on to analyze the Sacred and Dipylon Gates. Contemporary with the Classical fortifications (478 BC), the Sacred Gate converged traffic from the Sacred Way (from neighboring Eleusis) and the Street of the Tombs as well as allowing the Eridanos River to flow out of Athens. The Dipylon Gate, of the same date as the Sacred Gate, welcomed travelers from Plato’s Academy and Boeotia via the Dromos (the road leading into the Dipylon Gate). Inside the city, the Sacred Way and Dromos converge and lead travelers into the Athenian Agora.
Both gates, despite several building phases, are easily recognizable given their simple and well preserved remains. At first glance, one observes that the area in front of the gates is rectangular with walls on three sides. Both gates were built with their westernmost corner slightly more protruding in order to expose the weaker right side of infantrymen if they attempted to rush the gates (hoplites held their spear on right side and shield on the left, thus their right side was most vulnerable). If the enemy succeeded in entering the rectangular area before the gates, the Athenian archers atop the walls needed only to rain arrows upon the enemy. What is left of this brilliant construction gives one the feeling of entering what was once a majestic city.
If you imagine walking through one of the two gates in the Dipylon (or one of four gates after 394 BC), immediately to your left is a small Fountain house of Classical build. Constructed of Hymetian marble with a limestone and plaster lined pool, the quaint but elaborate building shows wear near the entranceway not only from the running water but from the heavy traffic that visited during its limited lifetime. In the area between the two gates stood the Pompeion, a rectangular building with an interior peristyle court. The Pompeion served as the preparation place for processions, the most popular of which was the Panathenaic Procession. On the northwest end of the Pompeion, next to the wall, five dining rooms were erected and decorated with simple but durable pebble mosaics (most are still intact despite later Roman construction). On the other side of the Pompeion, facing the agora was the Propylon, or entranceway, into the Pompeion. An elaborate structure in itself, the marble entranceway still has the Classical cuttings for cart wheels. The state of preservation is so impressive that the lead casing of an iron clamp, used to lodge the building stone into place and protect the building from earthquakes, is undisturbed. The grandeur of the battlements and buildings within the Keramaikos quickly ended after the Herulian sack of 267 AD, at which point the walls of the city contracted.
Returning to the outside of the walls through the Dipylon Gate, Seth guided us down the Dromos towards the Demosion Sema, the burial place of Athenian heroes and distinguished citizens. As we headed to this public tomb, we passed several reknown tombs, including a tomb from 403 BC to fallen Spartans. Above this simple funeral monument is inscribed, in retrograde so that they could be read by travelers entering the city, the word “LACEDAEMON”. In case anyone still questioned the birthplace of the occupants of this tomb, they were buried with typical Lacedaemonian pots and Attic funerary pottery in Spartan form. At the Demosion Sema it was difficult to not be in awe of the figures buried within, which include Pericles, Harmodius and Aristogeiton (the Tyrant Slayers), Kleisthenes, Thrasybolus, and many others. The beautiful and clear presentation of the site, a result of both the location and level of care given to it, makes the experience all the more surreal. After the Demosion Sema, we crossed over to the Street of the Tombs and admired the grave stele of Dexileos, a cavalryman who died in the Corinthian War of 390 BC, and other prominent figures. The morning was ended by a 30 minute self guided tour of the Keramaikos Museum.
After a one hour lunch, the group met at the entrance to the National Archaeological Museum, which contains Greece’s most outstanding collection of ancient art. Founded in 1866-89, the museum covers artifacts from the Prehistoric, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, and Late Antique times. Our tour for the day focused on Prehistoric, Archaic, and Classical items. Seth took the lead on the discussion on Archaic and Classical pottery. Seth’s tour of pottery was extensive. He began by discussing the characteristics of early Geometric vases, mainly the differences in the drawing of semicircles in the early Geometric versus the middle Geometric periods. Alongside the development of semicircles and circles in these vases, Seth also pointed out the development of meander patterns from Early Geometric to Late Geometric. Geometric vases, in general, have a problem with 3D depictions. Images that are intended to be seen in 3D take on a planar view, such as a deceased individual on top of bier during a funeral procession. This difficulty with 3D execution is also observed in the depictions of chariot horses, which are by necessity superimposed.
As we move away from Geometric vase painting, which is particular of the Archaic Period, the focus switches to the development of black–figure vases. The masters, at least in the 7th century, of black-figure painting were the Corinthians, who were greatly influenced by Oriental art. The Athenians eventually took on this style of vase painting, bringing it to its peak around 530 BC, under the guidance of Exekias (the greatest black figure painter of all time). A fragment by Sopholes, dating to about 580 BC, shows a mythical scene of the funeral games for Patroklos. The fragment is famous not only for its superior style and beauty but because it is the earliest signature found in Attic vase painting. Seth also points out some examples of black-figure vase painting not on vases, such as on the terracotta metopes of the Temple of Apollo at Thermon in Aitolia. The wooden plaques of Pitsa, a miracle of preservation, serve as representations of larger paintings on wooden panels that did not survive to the modern day.
Near the end of his presentation, Seth discusses the conversion from black-figure to red-figure vase painting. The switch over to red-figure vase painting is the result of a necessity to make depictions more specific. Red-figure vase painting is essentially the opposite of black-figure. In black-figure vase painting, the individuals and their narrative are in black while the background is tan/red. In red-figure, the figures are tan/red and the background is painted black. After some further discussions on white ground lekythoi (special funerary pottery that carried oils and perfumes), Panathenaic Amphorae (amphorae given to victors of the Panathenaic games), and red figure epinetron, Seth departed to a grand round of applause.
The floor then turned to Prof. Rutter who lectured on Prehistory sites and finds. Given that Mycenaean/Minoan pottery is Prof. Rutter’s expertise, the lecture that ensued was extensive, passionate, and comical. We began by observing plans of the phenomenal palaces at Mycenae and Tiryns. There are two major phases of Mycenaean development, each of which produced phenomenal art. During the first phase, Mycenaeans put all of their resources into the items buried in the tomb beside the deceased. During the second phase, after the Mycenaean domination of Minoan culture, the Mycenaeans begin to present their wealth in the form of large palacial complexes (much like those on Crete). The art of the first phase takes the form of gold decorations for the dead. These decorations include weapons, cups, pots, face masks, and jewelry. The second phase is rich in the development of frescoes. On our way to the display on the finds from Akrotiri, Prof. Rutter pointed out the vast collection of bronze items in the museum. Amongst these is a collection of arrow and spear heads from the Kolonos Hill at Thermopylae (this is the hill upon which the Spartans made their last stance before being overwhelmed by Xerxes’ army in 480 BC). The final display on Akrotiri in Thera included three famous frescoes, the Boxing Children Fresco, The Antelope Fresco, and the Spring Fresco. The site is also rich in its organic remains and Cycladic Pottery. The group, after this short display, willingly headed back to the Pan Hotel, which has now become the equivalent of “Home.”
It is around 8:30 in the morning on our first day back together after the five-day research break, which ended yesterday evening. We are standing in the entrance to the site known as the Kerameikos, Athens’ ancient cemetery. On the way from the Pan Hotel to the Kerameikos many of us exchanged stories about our first research breaks. Several students declared how happy they are to be on the move with the FSP group again, especially at the familiar sight of Professor Rutter’s sprightly gait!
After introductory comments by Professor Rutter and Seth Pevnick ’99, the group makes its way down to the best preserved section of the city walls of ancient Athens. The Kerameikos was located just outside the ancient city limits. As we walk toward the walls, the 9 o’clock sun beats down. It is time to start wearing better sun protection! Although it is hard to see clearly in this picture, the Athenian Acropolis looms in the distance.
A few minutes later, Seth shares his knowledge of the Kerameikos with the group and encourages us all to develop our foreign language skills. The site of the Kerameikos was excavated by German archeologists, which means that all of the publications about the site are in German. Seth added that the Athenian Agora is being excavated by a team of American archeologists, for those of us who have not yet mastered German, French or Italian among others…
Kelsey and Liz pose on the wall of the ancient fountain house we explored. In the background the ochre and tan exterior of an orthodox church stands out against the bright blue sky. It is about 10:15am.
After a thorough discussion of the fountain house we made our way over to the Pompeion, a facility used for preparations relating to ceremonial processions. As we explored the remaining blocks we found a beautifully preserved double-T clamp, a rare find. Usually, the lead casing of the clamps is damaged, which leaves the iron core exposed to the elements causing it to rust. Kyle lends a hand for scale. It is close to 11am.
Chris examines a carefully laid pebble-mosaic floor. These floors are indicative of dining facilities in the Pompeion.
Josh, Ray and Mike take a short photo break on the “banks” of the Eridanos River. The Eridanos is more aptly described as a stream, but this term is also a stretch. Trickle? Maybe. We then walked to the opposite end of the Kerameikos site to take a look at the Dromos and some tumuli along the way.
The group poses to the left of a boundary marker displayed along the Dromos. The inscription on the marker reads “I am the boundary of the Kerameikos.” Similar boundary markers were used to define the limits of the Agora.
Johann, Brooks, Gahl and Kinsey peek under a roof designed to protect the remains of an ancient kiln. Greenish traces of vitrified clay are visible in places where the high temperatures in the kiln began to transform the mud-brick walls into glass. As noon approaches, the hot sun enhances our experience of these remains.
As they cross the bridge over the Eridanos, Gahl and Johann hug. They are clearly overwhelmed at the sight of the mighty river. Upon closer inspection, I notice that the Eridanos is home to thousands of black tadpoles.
It is 11:45am and we are about to explore the Oberlander Museum, which houses many of the finds from the Kerameikos and is located near the entrance to the site. Gahl finally quenches his thirst at a water fountain outside the museum, while others go off in search of the restrooms. The long line of thirsty students at the fountain is one more reminder that summer is on its way and with it much higher temperatures.
It is now 12:30pm. The group is reassembling after our visit to the Oberlander Museum. Next is a quick lunch and walk over to the National Archeological Museum where we are meeting again at 1:30pm.
Kinsey photographs finds from the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia at Sparta. Despite the challenge of dim lighting and no flash photography, Kinsey manages to take nice photos of the finds. She may use some of these photographs for her independent study project. It is close to 3pm.
A few minutes later, Liz leans over to inspect painted wooden panels known as the Wooden Plaques of Pitsa. These panels have helped archeologists imagine what other ancient paintings on wood may have looked like, such as the famous paintings of the Stoa Poikile.
As we make our way through the extensive collection of Attic black figure pottery, Nick examines and photographs the underside of one pot in particular. We are always on the lookout for materials relevant to our independent study projects! It is close to 4pm.
Kinsey admires a piece she correctly identified as an Attic epinetron. These were used by women to protect their garments from lanolin stains while weaving wool. The ornate example here may have been used for decorative purposes only. It is 4:15 and almost the end of our tour of the museum’s black figure collection.
The mask of Agamemnon! Probably not, despite treasure hunter Heinrich Schliemann’s best efforts… When Schliemann began excavating the site of Mycenae in the late 1800’s he discovered the richly appointed Shaft Graves. The gold mask on the left in this picture was among the stunning finds. He claimed it was the funerary mask of the Homeric king Agamemnon. Few scholars today share his view. It is almost 5pm. We have a few more exhibits to look at before we call it a day.
Chris is moved by this display of arrowheads from the famous battle of Thermopylae. He and Johann had a moment as they thought about all the brave Spartan warriors who lost their lives.
Our business day is officially over. It is close to 5:30pm. Before we leave the museum Caleb gives us a three minute run-down of things we need to know before our early morning departure tomorrow. Ben, Brooks and Gahl let their tired legs dangle off the edge of the retaining wall of the massive stairway leading up to the museum. Everyone else is sitting on the steps in front of Caleb.
Before we make the trek back across town to our hotel, Johann poses alongside a modern bronze sculpture on display in front of the museum. This piece is one of several by artist Anna Chromy. Her outdoor exhibit is entitled “Mythos Revisited”, and creates a striking contrast to the ancient relics inside the museum.
FINAL COMMENTS:
Today was a successful first day back after the ISP break. Everyone seemed to be fairly well-rested and eager to get started again. As always Professor Rutter managed to expose us to an incredible number of material remains in a relatively short amount of time. We are very grateful to Seth for leading us around the Kerameikos and National Archeological Museum. It was wonderful to hear about his work since graduating from Dartmouth. Tomorrow we will begin another chapter of the 2007 Greece FSP as we head to Gla, Mitrou and Thebes.
